A Scan Over the Shoulder

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Created on Friday, 06 January 2012 10:44

Just a brief look back at the Winter Tour.

After only ten days on the road, and with 734.7 miles behind me, I was about halfway through the tour when I had to call it off. I was just hitting my stride, days were becoming easier, hills seemed shorter, I and I was heading south into warmer weather (I hope) and less hills. But life happens, and sometimes you give up things you want to do for things you have to do.

It’s peculiar that never once did I wind up sleeping in a church, but instead, churches put me up in a hotel four times. All I needed was a floor and a ceiling, but no one seemed comfortable with me sleeping in their church. I guess people in this part of the country are less trusting, but more generous? Or has something changed in the last two and a half years? If so, is it me, or everyone else? Whatever it is, it’s got me confused.

Three times I planned on stopping in at a barbecue place while on tour, and each time, it was closed. Only managed to find a good replacement once. I did make it to a barbecue place while taking a few days off in Plano, right around Christmas. I’m aware that the best barbecue places are often closed on weekends, or only open for lunch, or just stay open until they run out of food. But this was downright frustrating.

From spending most of my rides in Hill Country, I’ve developed the mentality that crossing a stream or seeing water is bad news. You’re now at a low point, and you’re about to kill yourself climbing out of it. On previous tours, while in the desert, that was only magnified. If you saw water, that’s probably the lowest spot for the entire day, and you could spend a looooong time climbing out of it. In East Texas and Southern Arkansas, not so much. It’s flat everywhere, and there’s about a gazillion streams and creeks, at least one every mile. Seeing one doesn’t mean anything.

As I've mentioned, the Ouachita Mountains aren't much different from Hill Country in Central Texas. Maybe a little taller, but not much. More piney, for sure, but other than that, even the vegetation and streams look the same. Which, of course, meant I loved riding through it. Also meant that it wasn't anything harder than what I already do. Only used the granny gear once on the entire tour, and I'm confident that had I been on pavement instead of loose gravel, I wouldn't have needed it at all.

I had hoped that this tour would be cathartic about a particular subject. That backfired; she was all I thought about. Luckily, it's been therapeutic instead, and things are getting better.

What you remember most about a tour is how fun it is. The easiest thing to forget is how hard it is. I think that might be the case for memory in general, we want to remember the good times and can forget some of the things that weren’t as pleasant. At least, for most people. Maybe that’s why we all remember childhood as idyllic, even though we’d never go back. It didn’t take long for me to get a firm reminder that bike touring isn’t the easiest thing in the world, nor very long for me to miss things like hot food, warm showers, clean clothes, and a butt that isn’t sore. And as much as I look forward to the modern comforts when I reach the end of a tour (prematurely or not), I’m happier on tour than I am in "normal" life. It’s just more meaningful to me. I doubt that anyone would make a list of their most cherished memories, their most meaningful accomplishments, or fulfilling moments in life, and fill it with things like “That time I was driving a car,” or “That time I was watching TV.” Nor would many people say those experiences would've been significantly better if it were a more expensive car or TV. Don’t get me wrong, I own a car and a TV, and there’s a place for those things. But don’t make your life about making money and having things. Focusing on that may sound like a good idea for the long run, but in the very long run, what will make for better memories? How will you wish you lived your life? So take your wife dancing, drive out to the country for a weekend getaway, learn to play an instrument, try rock climbing or kayaking or mountain biking, and take that trip to Hawaii you’ve always talked about. It’s OK if next time you have to buy a used car, or if you stick to DVD instead of Blu-Ray. Challenge yourself, and be a human do-ing, not a human be-ing. Spend your life living, not having. It’s later than you think.

As I’ve said, I hate that this tour had to come to an early close, especially that it was due to something beyond my control. Of course, there will be many more adventures, especially the big one coming up in May. Until next time, this is Robby, signing off.

Day 18.5 - Arkadelphia, AR

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Created on Friday, 06 January 2012 10:39

Distance: 29.3 mi.
Cumulative Dist: 734.7 mi.
Elevation: 246 ft.

My folks were driving up this morning from Plano, and we agreed that it’d be easier for them to pick me up if I made it to Arkadelphia. Not only closer to them, but also on the interstate. I was happy to oblige because that meant I could get more riding in.

Early in the day, it became obvious why Hot Springs isn’t on the interstate: there are a few hills in the way. Spent most of the morning in some rolling hills, up-down, up-down, saw a lake or river here and there. Some hills bigger than others, but nothing that required the granny gear. Once again, great riding today. Made me wish that these weren’t the last few miles.

At about 12 miles outside of Arkadelphia, I found a roadside produce stand. Didn’t have much in the way of fresh fruit (wrong time of year), but plenty of veggies and a wide array of jellies and spreads. I decided it’d be a nice offering to call my folks and see if they wanted anything. My mom requested strawberries, and I went ahead and got a jar of muscadine jelly too. Recommended by the owner, sounded interesting, and I’ve never tried it before. While on the phone with my folks, they announced that they were about 20 minutes from Arkadelphia, while I was still an hour away, so they’d go ahead and drive up the highway and find me.

For the next half hour, I kept staring at every SUV, thinking it could be them. Right at the top of one particular hill, I stopped to take a picture and a light blue CRV pulled up. My dad hopped out as I was snapping the photo and asked if I wanted to coast down one last hill before we load up Freebird. Couldn’t pass up that opportunity. Pushed off, pedaled twice, and let the hill do the rest. I smiled. At least it was ending with a downhill.

After a long drive back to Plano (which means it was a long day for my folks, thanks guys), I’m wearing a normal cotton T-shirt, belly full of quesadillas, enjoying all the comforts of home, and scouring Craigslist for subleases. I still wish I hadn’t had to call off the tour, but there are more important things, like having a place to live when you get back. I can’t thank my parents enough for going out of their way to help me, especially my dad, taking a day off in the middle of the week, right after Christmas. While this tour may have come to an early end, there will be many more, especially the big one coming up in May. And during that one, I won’t have an apartment back home to worry about.

Day 18 - Hot Springs, AR

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Created on Thursday, 05 January 2012 23:53

Distance: 61.6 mi.
Cumulative Dist: 705.4 mi.
Elevation: 540 ft. 

Hard to get out of the sleeping bag this morning, 20 degrees outside. Well, it was forecast as 20 degrees in the nearest town. Where I was up in the hills, it might've been colder. My sleeping bag, liner, and sleeping pad did a remarkable job keeping me warm overnight, but it was less than pleasant getting out of the bag and breaking camp in the cold morning air. Once I started getting moving on Freebird, it got worse. Hadn't warmed up yet from the exercise, and getting moving puts that self-made wind in your face. I'd layered well, so everything was doing alright...except my hands. After seeing how well the convertible gloves worked (which I'd just gotten for Christmas), and looking at a mostly warm forecast for at least a week, I'd left my warmest gloves behind, going with one convertible versatile pair rather than two separate pair. I was starting to regret that decision.

After only about two miles, I hit pavement again and started moving faster. Was able to keep a higher tempo, warming my body up, but also put more wind on my hands. After ten minutes or so, my whole body was sweating, but my fingers felt like they were about to fall off. I started feeling adrenaline creeping through my system and decided to pull over in a sunny spot. Just sat there on the side of the road with my hands in my armpits and waited for them to warm up. My main comforting thought was that this would probably be the coldest morning I have to deal with. Once my hands had full feeling, I actually shed a layer on my upper body (it had been sweating like crazy) and pressed on. Got a little cold after that, but manageable. I guess the gloves I had on can maintain your heat, but not warm you up, at least in those temperatures.

The Ouachitas really aren't all that hilly, only seemed a little bigger than Hill Country. And the roads seem flatter, at least the paved ones are, anyway. Scenery's awfully similar too, just with some pine trees thrown in. In fact, the last two days have reminded me of River Road on the Guadalupe River out west of San Marcos, which I've mentioned is the best ride I've taken while not on tour. Great riding all day, good riding yesterday, good scenery, this is shaping up to be a great tour.

It was right as I was thinking that when I got cell phone service again and my phone started beeping like crazy. Found a message from yesterday with some bad news. In short, my roommate will not be renewing our lease and I need to find a new place by the end of the month. Since I'll be leaving on Robby's Ride in May, I only need three months, and three-month leases are hard to come by, especially on short notice.

For that reason, I reluctantly made the decision to call off the tour, as soon as possible. The nearest people that could possibly come get me are my parents, so I stopped in a town and called home. They couldn't come out today (understandably), but could come out tomorrow and take me back to Plano the same day. I'd go ahead and press on to Hot Springs, then Arkadelphia tomorrow, where they'd pick me up.

Arrived in Hot Springs only a little after 3:00, making good time on the second half of the day. Pretty solid hills surrounding the town, bigger than the ones a few miles out. Seemed like the town must be in a valley of some kind, but since the lake and river are nearby instead of in town, I'm not sure. I had heard about a legendary barbecue place, but as I pulled up, a sign read that they were closed for an entire month for winter vacation. The third time this tour I'd tried to go to a great barbecue place only to find out it wasn't open. Why am I so cursed? Did I do something bad?

Asked a few churches if I could stay, and no one seemed to want to help out, until I got to St. Luke's Episcopal. The receptionist really wanted to help, but couldn't authorize me to stay without the pastor's approval in person, so she put me up in a hotel instead. Thanks, St. Luke's!

Knowing this was my last night on tour, and in a town that should have plenty of good options, and after being rejected again in my pursuit of great barbecue, I decided that this would be a good night to treat myself to a hot meal. After checking into the hotel, I strolled up the main avenue to a charming old-fashioned downtown area that was completely empty, and where everything appeared to close before 7:00. UrbanSpoon pointed me towards a restaurant/bar that sounded pretty good, so I headed inside, got a sandwich and a beer, and wound up talking to a few other guys at the bar. Just as I was finishing up, they asked if I wanted to join them upstairs for karaoke. I had no idea this bar even had karaoke when I walked in. But hey, being on tour is all about the unexpected, so why not?

The two gentlemen I'd just talked to were named Walt and Nathan, and now we were joined by their friends Dotty and Pam. The ladies sang, the gentlemen didn't. After finding out I was from Texas, I was all but forced into singing some George Strait, and wound up dancing with Dotty, and later singing "Jackson" with her, though I hardly knew any of the words. But hey, it's karaoke, does it matter? Had a good time and got to bed pretty late for tour, but then again, that didn't matter much either anymore. After a great night, I was still sad that this was the last one.

Day 17 - Ouachita National Forest, AR

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Created on Monday, 02 January 2012 15:23

Distance: 59.9 mi.
Cumulative Dist: 643.8 mi.
Elevation: ~1,400 ft.

I've changed my route and won't be going through the Ozarks. Instead, I'm heading to Hot Springs a little early, spending more time in the Ouachita National Forest. That sent me northeast this morning, and if I hadn't had great hosts lined up in De Queen (who made me a fantastic omelette this morning), I'd've skipped De Queen and stayed in one of the little towns I passed early on this morning.

Didn't have a particular destination in mind today, but was told more than once about a beautiful area to visit, and was told that there would be plenty of places to camp around there. Headed that way and figured I'd find somewhere to bed down for the night.

On short days, you always feel like you're making great time about halfway through the day, even if you're not. You see where you are, look at the time, and go "Wow, only 25 miles to go? I'm gonna be done by 1:00!" You may or may not be doing that well, but finishing early makes you feel that way.

A couple days ago, I wondered if Arkansas has piney woods. Don't remember any yesterday, but today I got my answer: Yep. A lot of 'em. Mixed in with deciduous trees sometimes, but plenty of needly trees. Today also saw the hills start getting bigger and bigger, especially once you enter the Ouachita National Forest.

Upon reaching the Albert Pike Recreational Area, where I'd been pointed to by hosts, I learned two things: 1. The campgrounds are all closed (I guess I'm the only one dumb enough to go camping in winter), and 2. Every road in the area is unpaved, even the ones that show up yellow on Google. I figured the best course of action would be to pass through on the shortest route to paved roads, and find a spot to set up camp around 4:00, early enough to get the tent pitched before dark.

The unpaved roads could've been worse, but they could've been better too. Inconsistent, they had their moments both ways. Pretty country though, and I bet a lot prettier when there are leaves on the trees. 12 unpaved miles took two and a half hours, only saw three cars the whole time. By then it was about 4:00, so it was time to find a good spot to camp.  Rolled along for about a half mile before I found a good flat area off the side of the road, where I could see the road through the woods since I knew it was there, but someone driving by wouldn't notice me at all.

So I'm stealth camping at a random spot off an upaved road in the woods. There is no cell phone signal, electricity, or water. All I have to eat is granola, jelly beans, and a jar of peanut butter. It's supposed to get below 20 degrees tonight. I'm not sure on the technical definition, but I think this counts as roughing it.

Day 16 - De Queen, AR

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Created on Sunday, 01 January 2012 14:57

Distance: 54.5 mi.
Cumulative Dist: 583.9 mi.
Elevation: 420 ft.

Started off the day with bacon, eggs, and biscuits, courtesy of Harvey. Thanks again! Only a couple of blocks into the day, found a monument in town for the state line. Since the road was on the state line, and the highway continued that way out of town, I figured this might be the only chance at a border photo with Freebird, so I took one. About five miles out of town, there was the border sign. The highway didn't move, so maybe this was the corner where the state border cuts west? And I know I said I'd stop talking about pavement, but goodness, it was a day-and-night difference when you crossed the state line, thankfully for the better.

Didn't feel well this morning and made bad time all day, in part from the lack of sleep the last few days, part from rushing through a century the day yesterday, and part from a 15 mph headwind. It was quickly obvious that I wouldn't make it to Mena, the planned destination, which would've been about a century. The night before, in Texarkana, I met a couple named Jeremy and Jacqueline who offered to host me in De Queen, about halfway between Texarkana and Mena. A short day for me, but there's almost nothing else between Texarkana and Mena, so it was the best option. And knowing you have good hosts helps a lot. The day ended with a shower, pork chops, good conversation, and enough sleep in a warm bed. Thanks, Jeremy and Jacqueline!